Morocco/Western
Sahara January/February 2015
Jonnie
Fisk, Tim Jones, Stephen Menzie and Oliver Metcalf
Having visited on a whistle stop trip in 2010, OM was keen to
return to Western Sahara for a bit more exploring and it wasn't too hard to
convince JF, TJ and SM to come along with flights into Agadir going cheap with EasyJet and some mouth-watering target species and habitat. A quick bit of
research and inspired by the Punks, we realised the potential to bump into some
mega WP species, so we chose a week with the hope to spend as much time as
possible searching these out as far south as possible.
Food and accommodation were all found cheaply as expected, we paid as little as 30p a litre for Diesel in Western Sahara! We made it through the multiple police and army checkpoints fairly easily with a plentiful supply of 'fish' (forms with all your personal details on, more info here and here)
Itinerary
29/01/15
Flew in Gatwick to Agadir, then drove south to Guelmine before
continuing overnight towards Dakhla
30/01/15
Overnight drive to Dakhla stopping at first light 132km north of
Dakhla before arriving at Dakhla around mid-morning
31/01/15
Overnight in Dakhla, headed down the Aousserd road stopping at
Gleib Jidane finishing at Oued Jenna at Dusk
01/02/15
Overnight in Aousserd before working our way back up the road to
Dakhla, evening mammal drive down the Aousserd Road
02/02/15
Overnight in Dakhla, day in 4x4 visiting Bir Anzarane and working
our way back to Dakhla
03/02/15
Drive north to Laayoune, birded Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra then
Khniffis Lagoon
04/02/15
Overnight in Tiznit, birded Oued Massa most of the day
05/02/15
Overnight in Agadir then flew back in morning.
Species List
Brent Goose Branta bernicla bernicla
10 Dark-bellied birds in Dakhla Bay on 30/01 was one of the
surprises of the trip....
Honest (SM) |
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
First 2 seen at Oued Boukila with 2 more in Dakhla Bay and an
amusing pair at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra
Flying round making crazy wheezing calls (TJ) |
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Pintail Anas acuta
Lots in the distance at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra
Shoveler Anas clypeata
Loads in the distance at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra
Marbled Teal Marmaronetta angustirostris
First seen at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra in the dark during a stop
on the long drive south on 29or30/01!
Up to 42 seen properly there in daylight on 03/02
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis
1 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra on 03/02
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
1 at Oued Massa on 04/02
European Storm Petrel Hydrobates pelagicus
Plenty noted offshore from Dakhla with 20+ seen on 30/01 etc
Gannet Morus bassanus
Plenty seen offshore from Dakhla.
Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis/ lucidus/maroccanus
Plenty of white breasted birds seen in Western Sahara
Cattle Egret Bulbucus ibis
Not the first bird of the trip much to the disappointment of OM
but plenty seen at various locations
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Plenty noted around Dakhla and Oued Massa with a presumed hybrid
Little x Western Reef (E.gularis) at Oued Massa on 04/02
Presumed hybrid bird (TJ) |
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Fairly common especially around Dakhla Bay.
White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Flock of c.15 seen at Oued Massa on 04/02
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Plenty around Oued Massa on 04/02
Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita
A flock of 76 were seen in flight north of Oued Massa thanks to
some rally style driving by OM on 04/02
Whizzing around not wanting to land (TJ) |
Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
Plenty noted around Dakhla including several colour ringed birds.
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Scattered groups around Dakhla Bay.
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Seen in most habitats from middle of the desert to rubbish tips!
Eating it's lunch, while we ate ours (TJ) |
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Just 1 seen the whole trip, at Oued Jenna on 0/02
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Some nice males heading north as well as hunting birds at Oued
Massa
Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus cirtensis
At least 5 seen along the Aousserd Road including an obliging pair
at KM42, all extremely pale birds
Striking (TJ) |
Sparrowhawk Accipiter nissus
Just the 1 seen at Oued Massa on 04/02
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Noted in most villages/towns
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
At least 2 seen hunting north of Dakhla
Peregrine Falco peregrinus brookei
1 over Dakhla on 30/01
Lanner Falco biarmicus erlangeri
A massive female at Oued Boukila on 29/01
A male seen perched distantly at KM 205 along the Aousserd Road
Distant! (TJ) |
Water Rail Rallus aquaticus
One calling away near where the Allen's Gallinule was meant to be
at Oued Massa on 04/02
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Lots at Oued Massa.
Coot Fulica atra
c.40 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra and 2 at Oued Massa.
Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus
Seen around Dakhla Bay
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Plenty at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra and Oued Massa
Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus
1 seen well at night in Laayoune on 29/01
1 calling over Dakhla
1 murdered by SM whilst driving out of Dakhla
Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor
2 by roadside 132km north of Dakhla on 30/01
2 at the start of the Aousserd Road on 31/01
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubis
At least 4 at Oued Boukila and other birds seen at Dakhla and
Oued Massa.
Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Abundant in Dakhla Bay
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
Plenty in Dakhla Bay and Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra
Grey Plover Pluvalis squatarola
Several around Dakhla Bay
Knot Calidris canutus
A few in Dakhla Bay
Sanderling Calidris alba
Plenty around Dakhla
Turnstone Arenaria interpres
A few around Dakhla and Tarfaya
Dunlin Calidris alpina ?
Abundant in Dakhla Bay
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
5+ seen in Dakhla Bay
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
4 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
1 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra
Redshank Tringa totanus
Plenty around Dakhla Bay
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
3+ at Oued Massa on 04/02
Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Several around Dakhla Bay
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa islandica?
First seen at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra and c.20 at Oued Massa.
Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
Plenty seen around Dakhla Bay with several colour ringed birds
Curlew Numenius arquata
A few around Dakhla Bay
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
At least 10 around Dakhla.
Snipe Gallinago gallinago
1 flushed by Barn Owl on 29/02 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra
Great Skua Stercoarius skua
Omnipresent offshore at Dakhla and also seen from Tarfaya during a
brief sea-watch
Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus
Scattered around Dakhla Bay
Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei
Up to 20 seen in Dakhla Bay on various dates
Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus
Up to 3 1w noted around Dakhla, including a red darvic'd bird with
an unusually replaced primary.
Not that we managed to read the code! (TJ) |
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis ?
Lots...
Audouin's Gull Larus audouinii
Plenty around Dakhla with probably 200+
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus graellsi
Tonnes on the various tips at Dakhla etc
Sat-tagged bird as well as quite a few darvic'd birds (TJ) |
Heuglin's Gull Larus heuglini
a presumed juv at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02 (not that we had a clue what it was at the time!)
strange looking beast (TJ) |
Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus
at least 4 adults at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02
Glaucous Gull Larus hyperboreus
a juv at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02 had been present sev weeks before
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Seen around Dakhla Bay
Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia
Lots around Dakhla Bay
Royal Tern Sterna maxima
Several seen around Dakhla seen from several different stops
around the bay etc
Lazing on the cliff top (TJ) |
Spotted Sandgrouse Pterocles senegallus
A flock of 12 flew over Gleib Jidane on 31/01
Feral Pigeon Columba livia domesticus
Woodpigeon Columba palumbus
2 seen around Agadir
Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Abundant
Laughing Dove Streptopelia orientalis
A few seen in various towns around Western Sahara
Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
A single just north of Dakhla on our way back from Bir Anzarane on
02/02
Pharaoh Eagle Owl Bubo ascalaphus
2 nests shown to us by Mohammed Lemine around the Southern end of
the Aousserd Road on 01/02
1 flushed out of Oued Jenna much to the surprise of TJ on 02/02
Cracking orange eyes (TJ) |
Barn Owl Tyto alba
1 hunting over Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra at a nightime stop on 29 or 30/01
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
Several seen over Oued Massa on 04/01
Kingfisher Alcedo atthis atthis
1 at Oued Massa on 04/02
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Several around Oued Massa on 04/02
Thekla Lark Galerida theklae
First seen in the Anti-Atlas on 29/02 and noted at most desert
locations after this.
Punk Thekla (TJ) |
Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti payni
A flattened bird on the road 22km south of Guelmine
2 present at KM 205 along the Aousserd Road on 01/02
Jonnie's 'mascot' till it started to smell... (JF) |
Bar-tailed Lark Ammomanes cinctura
First 2 were 22km south of Guelmine on 29/01 near the hill
west of the road
2 were 132km north of Dakhla
at least 5 at KM205 on Aousserd Road and several others noted
along the Aousserd Road
(African) Dunn's Lark Eremalauda dunni dunni
Following a report from early December 3 showed well at KM 205
along the Aousserd Road on 02/02
We then made more of an effort to stop for flyover 'Bar-tailed
Larks' and found 1 at KM197 and 2 at KM196 (near the sign for Achohada Laglat
Cemetery).
Singing and alarm calls recorded and uploaded to Xeno-Canto here the only recordings on the Xeno-Canto Database.
Cracking little Larks (TJ) |
Black-crowned Sparrow Lark Eremopterix nigriceps albifrons
An impressive flock of 30+ at Oued Jenna on 01/02
Cracking males (TJ) |
Thick-billed Lark Ramphocoris clotbey
A very flukey pair were found 132km north of Dakhla after a
decision to randomly stop once it was light on our first morning 30/01
Temminck's Lark Eremophila bilopha
4 132km north of Dakhla with the Thick-billed Larks on 30/01
Also a single at Gleib Jidane
Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes alaudipes
Probably the most abundant lark of the trip with birds heard
singing at nearly every stop in the Sahara, with lots of tumbling roadside
birds!
Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola
2 showed well from the 'usual' bridge at Oued Massa on 04/02
Strange little faces on them (TJ) |
Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
20+ at Oued Massa on 04/02
Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula
2 at Oued Jenna on 01/02
Swallow Hirundo rustica
Several bombing north through the desert with hundreds over Oued
Saquiat Al-Hamra and Oued Massa.
House Martin Delichon urbicum
Various birds seen with plenty in with Swallow flock at Oued
Saquiat Al-Hamra
Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis
Single at Oued Boukila on 29/01 and plenty at Oued Massa.
Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus
3 at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02
4+ at Oued Massa on 04/02
White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba
Abundant
Yellow Wagtail Flava flava iberiae
Some spanking male Iberians showed well at Oued Massa with
probably 15+ birds noted throughout the day.
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
1 at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02
Robin Erithacus rubecula
1 at Oued Massa on 04/02
Bluethroat Luscinia svecica
2 including a singing male at Oued Massa on 04/02
Moussier's Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri
First seen on 29/02 during drive through Anti-Atlas, the found
easily around Oued Massa on 04/02
Cracking birds (TJ) |
Northern Wheatear Oenathe oenathe
A scrotty pair on the tip at Dakhla
White-crowned Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga
First seen at KM 205 with at least 4 there on, a pair were our
alarm clock on 02/02 in Aousserd
Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura
First seen in the anti-atlas and then subsequently at several
roadside stops including 3 108km north of Dakhla
Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti homochroa
Most abundant wheatear sp of the trip with pairs seen at most
stops/from car in the desert mainly Western Sahara
Some very showy birds (TJ) |
Red-rumped Wheatear Oenanthe moesta
First pair was seen at Oued Boukila on 29/02
After this several other birds noted at Gleib Jidane and various
other stops.
Really nice Wheatears in a stunning setting (TJ) |
Stonechat Saxicola rubicola rubicola
Plenty around
Blackbird Turdus merula mauritanicus
Cool long tailed Moroccan race seen around Agadir
Scrub Warbler Scotocerca inquieta saharae
At least 3 were at Oued Boukila on 29/01
Another in scrub near a sign for Centre Bir Anzarane north of
Dakhla on 30/01
Cricket Longtail Spiloptila clamans
After struggling to find any in Oued Jenna and none at any other
likely looking habitat patches along the Aousserd Road on 01/02 it was a
surprise to find at least 4 at KM205 on the Aousserd Road on 02/02 whilst
trying to re-locate the Dunn's Larks.
Munching on a big red caterpillar (TJ) |
Western Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis
a single in Oued Jenna on 02/02
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala melanocephala
Up to 5 found in various Oueds
Showy bird at Oued Massa (TJ) |
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata
The standard sylvia along with Subalp
Subalpine Warbler Sylvia whoknows
Everywhere.
Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
2 at Oued Massa.
Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis
Common around Oued Massa
Very showy birds (TJ) |
Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti
Good views had around Oued Massa
Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus ?
2+ heard singing at Oued Massa
Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
Everywhere!
Great Tit Parus major
1 at Oued Massa.
African Blue Tit Cyanistes ultramarinus
Heard only in Agadir around the Kings Palace on 29/01
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius exubitor elegans
Easily seen from the car once in Western Sahara.
Obligatory bird of the desert (TJ) |
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus
at least 1 heard only at Oued Massa on 04/02
Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus
Everywhere
Fulvous Babbler Turdoides fulva
A cracking family group in Oued Jenna on 02/02
Really inquisitive birds in a family group (TJ) |
Magpie Pica pica mauritanica
Cool Mauritanian race birds seen at various places between Agadir
and Oued Massa
Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis
Plenty seen along the Aousserd Road
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
The first bird of the trip and in most towns and villages in
Morocco
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Common.
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
Only a handful seen including a presumably migrant flock flying
north at Oued Boukila on 29/01
Desert Sparrow Passer simplex
Odd 1 or 2 seen around Oued Jenna and in various Oueds between
there and Aousserd as well as probably 60+ at Bir Anzarane on 03/02
Desert Sparrow nest found near Aousserd (JF) |
SUDAN GOLDEN SPARROW Passer luteus
One of the undoubted highlights of the trip, following up a report
of a single male we were shocked to find 28+ at Bir Anzarane! More details here including how to see them if planning a trip http://www.birdguides.com/webzine/article.asp?a=4863
Unexpected species of the trip (TJ) |
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs africana
African race birds seen at Oued Massa
Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Heard flying over at Oued Sayed
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Several birds at Oued Sayed
Greenfinch Chloris chloris
Again at Oued Sayed
Serin Serinus serinus
Lots around Oued Massa
Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus
2 males came into drink at Gleib Jidane on 01/02
Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus
3 around Oued Massa including a spanking male
Stunning (TJ) |
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra
2 at Oued Massa
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia
1 seen from the car in the Anti-Atlas
House Bunting Emberiza sahari
JFs favourite bird of the trip, with a woop at everyone seen!
Luckily we didn't see any non-flyovers-from-a-moving-car till Oued Massa on
04/02
Like House Sparrows in most villages etc (TJ) |
Mammals
Fennec Fox Vulpes zerda
1 seen in daylight at Bir Anzarane near the Sudan Golden Sparrow
site was a surprise after been torn away from the watering hole on 03/02
Fennec prints (SM) |
Lesser Egyptian Jerboa Jaculus jaculus
1 showed amazingly well during the night drive on 02/02 allowing
approach to 10ft!
Desert Hedgehog Paraechinus aethiopicus
1 during the night drive on 01/02 and showed well in the morning
02/02 after Mohammed put it in the back of the 4x4!
ID Confirmed (SM) |
Savannah Hare Lepus microtis?
Several noted during night drives including a boxing pair near
Aousserd on ... and a few flushed out of Oued Jenna during the day. A dead one
near Laayoune.
Dazzled (TJ) |
Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops truncatus (the non-retarded variety...)
At least 4 followed a barely sea-worthy boat into Dakhla on
31/01
Barbary Ground Squirrel Atlantoxerus getulus
Several at a random stop in the Anti-Atlas
Dromedary Camel Camelus dromedarius
One of the most disgusting looking newly born animals, closer viewing not recommended! (SM) |
Other
Spur-thighed Tortoise Testudo graeca ?
A sharp spot by OM whilst watching Barbary Ground Squirrels made for fits of laughter!
snoozing (SM) |
Found under a rock north for Dakhla and took a dislike to JF making amazing growling/buzzing noise threat display!
Crazy Gecko (JF) |
Crazy eyes (SM) |
(TJ) |
Uromastyx sp?
Scorpion sp
Waiting for Sudan Golden Sparrow (TJ)
|
Post Sudan Golden Sparrow L-R Oliver Metcalf, Jonnie Fisk, Mohammed Lemine (ANI), Stephen Menzie and Tim Jones. (TJ) |
'THE' watering hole (SM) |
Golden Sparrow selfie (SM) |
The 'farm' (SM)
|
Anti-Atlas stop, first Moussier's, Thekla and Black Wheatear also Rock Bunting here (SM)
|
TJ and JF foolishly went down-wind of this outflow pipe at Dakhla and amazingly survived... (SM) |
Aousserd accommodation, Bedouin style (yes it is on a basketball court...) (JF)
|
The only habitat we found the Cricket Warblers in (SM) |
Dunn's Lark habitat at KM205 on the Aousserd Road (SM) |
Fennec Fox habitat (SM) |
The legendary Oued Jenna (SM) |
The Sahara from a Pharaoh Eagle Owl nest spot (SM)
|
Dawn at Oued Massa, dipping on Allen's Gallinule (SM) |
Shrike larder (SM) |
JF getting crippling views of Bubo breadus (Sm) |
Staple diet (SM) |
For any more questions drop any of us a line via email, Twitter, Facebook etc etc.
(SM) |
Don't forget to check out the ANI Facebook page here, a lot of this trip would not have been possible without them!