Tim's Birding Blog: Morocco/Western Sahara

Morocco/Western Sahara January/February 2015

Jonnie Fisk, Tim Jones, Stephen Menzie and Oliver Metcalf

Having visited on a whistle stop trip in 2010, OM was keen to return to Western Sahara for a bit more exploring and it wasn't too hard to convince JF, TJ and SM to come along with flights into Agadir going cheap with EasyJet and some mouth-watering target species and habitat. A quick bit of research and inspired by the Punks, we realised the potential to bump into some mega WP species, so we chose a week with the hope to spend as much time as possible searching these out as far south as possible.

Food and accommodation were all found cheaply as expected, we paid as little as 30p a litre for Diesel in Western Sahara! We made it through the multiple police and army checkpoints fairly easily with a plentiful supply of 'fish' (forms with all your personal details on, more info here and here)

Itinerary

29/01/15

Flew in Gatwick to Agadir, then drove south to Guelmine before continuing overnight towards Dakhla

30/01/15

Overnight drive to Dakhla stopping at first light 132km north of Dakhla before arriving at Dakhla around mid-morning

31/01/15

Overnight in Dakhla, headed down the Aousserd road stopping at Gleib Jidane finishing at Oued Jenna at Dusk

01/02/15

Overnight in Aousserd before working our way back up the road to Dakhla, evening mammal drive down the Aousserd Road

02/02/15

Overnight in Dakhla, day in 4x4 visiting Bir Anzarane and working our way back to Dakhla

03/02/15

Drive north to Laayoune, birded Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra then Khniffis Lagoon

04/02/15

Overnight in Tiznit, birded Oued Massa most of the day

05/02/15

Overnight in Agadir then flew back in morning.

Species List

Brent Goose Branta bernicla bernicla

10 Dark-bellied birds in Dakhla Bay on 30/01 was one of the surprises of the trip....

Honest (SM)

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

First 2 seen at Oued Boukila with 2 more in Dakhla Bay and an amusing pair at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra

Flying round making crazy wheezing calls (TJ)

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

Pintail Anas acuta

Lots in the distance at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra

Shoveler Anas clypeata

Loads in the distance at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra

Marbled Teal Marmaronetta angustirostris

First seen at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra in the dark during a stop on the long drive south on 29or30/01!

Up to 42 seen properly there in daylight on 03/02

Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis

1 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra on 03/02

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

1 at Oued Massa on 04/02

European Storm Petrel Hydrobates pelagicus

Plenty noted offshore from Dakhla with 20+ seen on 30/01 etc

Gannet Morus bassanus

Plenty seen offshore from Dakhla.

Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis/lucidus/maroccanus

Plenty of white breasted birds seen in Western Sahara

Cattle Egret Bulbucus ibis

Not the first bird of the trip much to the disappointment of OM but plenty seen at various locations

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Plenty noted around Dakhla and Oued Massa with a presumed hybrid Little x Western Reef (E.gularis) at Oued Massa on 04/02

Presumed hybrid bird (TJ)

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Fairly common especially around Dakhla Bay.

White Stork Ciconia ciconia

Flock of c.15 seen at Oued Massa on 04/02

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

Plenty around Oued Massa on 04/02

Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita

A flock of 76 were seen in flight north of Oued Massa thanks to some rally style driving by OM on 04/02

Whizzing around not wanting to land (TJ)

Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

Plenty noted around Dakhla including several colour ringed birds.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

Scattered groups around Dakhla Bay.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

Seen in most habitats from middle of the desert to rubbish tips!

Eating it's lunch, while we ate ours (TJ)

Black Kite Milvus migrans

Just 1 seen the whole trip, at Oued Jenna on 0/02

Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus

Some nice males heading north as well as hunting birds at Oued Massa

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus cirtensis

At least 5 seen along the Aousserd Road including an obliging pair at KM42, all extremely pale birds

Striking (TJ)

Sparrowhawk Accipiter nissus

Just the 1 seen at Oued Massa on 04/02

Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Noted in most villages/towns

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni

At least 2 seen hunting north of Dakhla

Peregrine Falco peregrinus brookei

1 over Dakhla on 30/01

Lanner Falco biarmicus erlangeri

A massive female at Oued Boukila on 29/01

A male seen perched distantly at KM 205 along the Aousserd Road

Distant! (TJ)

Water Rail Rallus aquaticus

One calling away near where the Allen's Gallinule was meant to be at Oued Massa on 04/02

Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

Lots at Oued Massa.

Coot Fulica atra

c.40 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra and 2 at Oued Massa.

Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus

Seen around Dakhla Bay

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Plenty at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra and Oued Massa

Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus

1 seen well at night in Laayoune on 29/01

1 calling over Dakhla

1 murdered by SM whilst driving out of Dakhla

Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor

2 by roadside 132km north of Dakhla on 30/01

2 at the start of the Aousserd Road on 31/01

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubis

At least 4 at Oued Boukila and other birds seen at Dakhla and Oued Massa.

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula

Abundant in Dakhla Bay

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

Plenty in Dakhla Bay and Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra

Grey Plover Pluvalis squatarola

Several around Dakhla Bay

Knot Calidris canutus

A few in Dakhla Bay

Sanderling Calidris alba

Plenty around Dakhla

Turnstone Arenaria interpres

A few around Dakhla and Tarfaya

Dunlin Calidris alpina ?

Abundant in Dakhla Bay

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

5+ seen in Dakhla Bay

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

4 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

1 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra

Redshank Tringa totanus

Plenty around Dakhla Bay

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus

3+ at Oued Massa on 04/02

Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Several around Dakhla Bay

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa islandica?

First seen at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra and c.20 at Oued Massa.

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

Plenty seen around Dakhla Bay with several colour ringed birds

Curlew Numenius arquata

A few around Dakhla Bay

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus

At least 10 around Dakhla.

Snipe Gallinago gallinago

1 flushed by Barn Owl on 29/02 at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra

Great Skua Stercoarius skua

Omnipresent offshore at Dakhla and also seen from Tarfaya during a brief sea-watch

Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus

Scattered around Dakhla Bay

Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei

Up to 20 seen in Dakhla Bay on various dates

Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus

Up to 3 1w noted around Dakhla, including a red darvic'd bird with an unusually replaced primary.

Not that we managed to read the code! (TJ)

Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis ?

Lots...

Audouin's Gull Larus audouinii

Plenty around Dakhla with probably 200+

Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus graellsi

Tonnes on the various tips at Dakhla etc

Sat-tagged bird as well as quite a few darvic'd birds (TJ)

Heuglin's Gull Larus heuglini

a presumed juv at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02 (not that we had a clue what it was at the time!)

strange looking beast (TJ)

Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus

at least 4 adults at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02

Glaucous Gull Larus hyperboreus

a juv at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02 had been present sev weeks before

Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis

Seen around Dakhla Bay

Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia

Lots around Dakhla Bay

Royal Tern Sterna maxima

Several seen around Dakhla seen from several different stops around the bay etc

Lazing on the cliff top (TJ)

Spotted Sandgrouse Pterocles senegallus

A flock of 12 flew over Gleib Jidane on 31/01

Feral Pigeon Columba livia domesticus

Woodpigeon Columba palumbus

2 seen around Agadir

Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

Abundant

Laughing Dove Streptopelia orientalis

A few seen in various towns around Western Sahara

Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius

A single just north of Dakhla on our way back from Bir Anzarane on 02/02

Pharaoh Eagle Owl Bubo ascalaphus

2 nests shown to us by Mohammed Lemine around the Southern end of the Aousserd Road on 01/02

1 flushed out of Oued Jenna much to the surprise of TJ on 02/02

Cracking orange eyes (TJ)

Barn Owl Tyto alba

1 hunting over Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra at a nightime stop on 29 or 30/01

Pallid Swift Apus pallidus

Several seen over Oued Massa on 04/01

Kingfisher Alcedo atthis atthis

1 at Oued Massa on 04/02

Crested Lark Galerida cristata

Several around Oued Massa on 04/02

Thekla Lark Galerida theklae

First seen in the Anti-Atlas on 29/02 and noted at most desert locations after this.

Punk Thekla (TJ)

Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti payni

A flattened bird on the road 22km south of Guelmine

2 present at KM 205 along the Aousserd Road on 01/02

Jonnie's 'mascot' till it started to smell... (JF)

Bar-tailed Lark Ammomanes cinctura

First 2 were 22km south of Guelmine on 29/01 near the hill west of the road

2 were 132km north of Dakhla

at least 5 at KM205 on Aousserd Road and several others noted along the Aousserd Road

(African) Dunn's Lark Eremalauda dunni dunni

Following a report from early December 3 showed well at KM 205 along the Aousserd Road on 02/02

We then made more of an effort to stop for flyover 'Bar-tailed Larks' and found 1 at KM197 and 2 at KM196 (near the sign for Achohada Laglat Cemetery).

Singing and alarm calls recorded and uploaded to Xeno-Canto here the only recordings on the Xeno-Canto Database.

Cracking little Larks (TJ)

Black-crowned Sparrow Lark Eremopterix nigriceps albifrons

An impressive flock of 30+ at Oued Jenna on 01/02

Cracking males (TJ)

Thick-billed Lark Ramphocoris clotbey

A very flukey pair were found 132km north of Dakhla after a decision to randomly stop once it was light on our first morning 30/01

Temminck's Lark Eremophila bilopha

4 132km north of Dakhla with the Thick-billed Larks on 30/01

Also a single at Gleib Jidane

Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes alaudipes

Probably the most abundant lark of the trip with birds heard singing at nearly every stop in the Sahara, with lots of tumbling roadside birds!

Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola

2 showed well from the 'usual' bridge at Oued Massa on 04/02

Strange little faces on them (TJ)

Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris

20+ at Oued Massa on 04/02

Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula

2 at Oued Jenna on 01/02

Swallow Hirundo rustica

Several bombing north through the desert with hundreds over Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra and Oued Massa.

House Martin Delichon urbicum

Various birds seen with plenty in with Swallow flock at Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra

Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis

Single at Oued Boukila on 29/01 and plenty at Oued Massa.

Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus

3 at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02

4+ at Oued Massa on 04/02

White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba

Abundant

Yellow Wagtail Flava flava iberiae

Some spanking male Iberians showed well at Oued Massa with probably 15+ birds noted throughout the day.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

1 at Khniffis Lagoon on 03/02

Robin Erithacus rubecula

1 at Oued Massa on 04/02

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica

2 including a singing male at Oued Massa on 04/02

Moussier's Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri

First seen on 29/02 during drive through Anti-Atlas, the found easily around Oued Massa on 04/02

Cracking birds (TJ)

Northern Wheatear Oenathe oenathe

A scrotty pair on the tip at Dakhla

White-crowned Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga

First seen at KM 205 with at least 4 there on, a pair were our alarm clock on 02/02 in Aousserd

Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura

First seen in the anti-atlas and then subsequently at several roadside stops including 3 108km north of Dakhla

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti homochroa

Most abundant wheatear sp of the trip with pairs seen at most stops/from car in the desert mainly Western Sahara

Some very showy birds (TJ)

Red-rumped Wheatear Oenanthe moesta

First pair was seen at Oued Boukila on 29/02

After this several other birds noted at Gleib Jidane and various other stops.

Really nice Wheatears in a stunning setting (TJ)

Stonechat Saxicola rubicola rubicola

Plenty around

Blackbird Turdus merula mauritanicus

Cool long tailed Moroccan race seen around Agadir

Scrub Warbler Scotocerca inquieta saharae

At least 3 were at Oued Boukila on 29/01

Another in scrub near a sign for Centre Bir Anzarane north of Dakhla on 30/01

Cricket Longtail Spiloptila clamans

After struggling to find any in Oued Jenna and none at any other likely looking habitat patches along the Aousserd Road on 01/02 it was a surprise to find at least 4 at KM205 on the Aousserd Road on 02/02 whilst trying to re-locate the Dunn's Larks.

Munching on a big red caterpillar (TJ)

Western Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis

a single in Oued Jenna on 02/02

Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala melanocephala

Up to 5 found in various Oueds

Showy bird at Oued Massa (TJ)

Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata

The standard sylvia along with Subalp

Subalpine Warbler Sylvia whoknows

Everywhere.

Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus

2 at Oued Massa.

Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis

Common around Oued Massa

Very showy birds (TJ)

Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti

Good views had around Oued Massa

Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus ?

2+ heard singing at Oued Massa

Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita

Everywhere!

Great Tit Parus major

1 at Oued Massa.

African Blue Tit Cyanistes ultramarinus

Heard only in Agadir around the Kings Palace on 29/01

Southern Grey Shrike Lanius exubitor elegans

Easily seen from the car once in Western Sahara.

Obligatory bird of the desert (TJ)

Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus

at least 1 heard only at Oued Massa on 04/02

Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus

Everywhere

Fulvous Babbler Turdoides fulva

A cracking family group in Oued Jenna on 02/02

Really inquisitive birds in a family group (TJ)

Magpie Pica pica mauritanica

Cool Mauritanian race birds seen at various places between Agadir and Oued Massa

Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis

Plenty seen along the Aousserd Road

Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor

The first bird of the trip and in most towns and villages in Morocco

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Common.

Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis

Only a handful seen including a presumably migrant flock flying north at Oued Boukila on 29/01

Desert Sparrow Passer simplex

Odd 1 or 2 seen around Oued Jenna and in various Oueds between there and Aousserd as well as probably 60+ at Bir Anzarane on 03/02

Desert Sparrow nest found near Aousserd (JF)

SUDAN GOLDEN SPARROW Passer luteus

One of the undoubted highlights of the trip, following up a report of a single male we were shocked to find 28+ at Bir Anzarane! More details here including how to see them if planning a trip http://www.birdguides.com/webzine/article.asp?a=4863

Unexpected species of the trip (TJ)

Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs africana

African race birds seen at Oued Massa

Linnet Carduelis cannabina

Heard flying over at Oued Sayed

Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis

Several birds at Oued Sayed

Greenfinch Chloris chloris

Again at Oued Sayed

Serin Serinus serinus

Lots around Oued Massa

Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus

2 males came into drink at Gleib Jidane on 01/02

Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus

3 around Oued Massa including a spanking male

Stunning (TJ)

Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra

2 at Oued Massa

Rock Bunting Emberiza cia

1 seen from the car in the Anti-Atlas

House Bunting Emberiza sahari

JFs favourite bird of the trip, with a woop at everyone seen! Luckily we didn't see any non-flyovers-from-a-moving-car till Oued Massa on 04/02

Like House Sparrows in most villages etc (TJ)

Mammals

Fennec Fox Vulpes zerda

1 seen in daylight at Bir Anzarane near the Sudan Golden Sparrow site was a surprise after been torn away from the watering hole on 03/02

Fennec prints (SM)

Lesser Egyptian Jerboa Jaculus jaculus

1 showed amazingly well during the night drive on 02/02 allowing approach to 10ft!

Desert Hedgehog Paraechinus aethiopicus

1 during the night drive on 01/02 and showed well in the morning 02/02 after Mohammed put it in the back of the 4x4!

ID Confirmed (SM)

Savannah Hare Lepus microtis?

Several noted during night drives including a boxing pair near Aousserd on ... and a few flushed out of Oued Jenna during the day. A dead one near Laayoune.

Dazzled (TJ)

Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops truncatus (the non-retarded variety...)

At least 4 followed a barely sea-worthy boat into Dakhla on 31/01

Barbary Ground Squirrel Atlantoxerus getulus

Several at a random stop in the Anti-Atlas

Dromedary Camel Camelus dromedarius

Are there any 'wild' Camels left? Didn't stop JF getting excited!

One of the most disgusting looking newly born animals, closer viewing not recommended! (SM)

Other

Spur-thighed Tortoise Testudo graeca ?

A sharp spot by OM whilst watching Barbary Ground Squirrels made for fits of laughter!

snoozing (SM)

Helmeted Gecko Tarentola chazaliae
Found under a rock north for Dakhla and took a dislike to JF making amazing growling/buzzing noise threat display!